Thursday, July 19, 2007

An interesting day to say the least

Has it really been an entire week since I last posted? Sorry to leave you out of the loop for so long. It's been very busy here this last week, but I finally found some time to sit down and catch you up.

In summary, here's what you can look forward to reading about:
-taking 30 American teenagers to a gay bar in Nice (oops) for techno night and dancing
-excursions to Eze, Monaco, and St. Tropez
-the gardens and view in Eze
-cars, aquarium, and a palace visit in Monaco
-modern and contemporary art museum visits
-my day off in Italy
-para-sailing
-making cologne in Grasse...
...and...
-blues night!!!

Les deux frères
So you might be wondering why anyone in his right mind would willfully escort a group of 30 underaged Americans to a gay bar in Nice... I don't know that there's a good answer to that. It all started when Marion, our Activities Director on the program, told us about a techno night a local pub was hosting. There was going to be a guest DJ playing his own stuff, and it sounded like an enjoyable evening activity and a good chance for the American participants to hear some good European dance music. A great cultural experience, right?

When Marion told me the name of the club was "Les deux frères (The Two Brothers)," I didn't think anything of it. I just had it in my brain that that was the name of the club we were looking for in town. And even after getting there it wasn't immediately obvious that anything out of the ordinary was taking place. As we were among the first to arrive at the club that night, we didn't start noticing anything until some more of the club's patrons began to enter. It seemed like guys were coming with guys and girls with girls...and then it dawned on me.... As the guys started dancing with the guys and the girls with girls, and we started noticing their fashion and behavior, it became all too apparent.

Being in a gay bar does have its advantages, however. (I didn't think I'd ever hear myself say that.) One of the biggest things I worry about in France as someone responsible for the safety of 25 American high school girls, especially at night, is unwanted attention from the ubiquitous sketchy French male. Some of them are so inappropriate it's enough to make you sick. But at a gay bar, I didn't worry at all when some of the girls started dancing with a couple of guys (who were already dancing together). They all had a good time dancing together, and everyone in the bar was extremely considerate and polite. It was honestly one of the safest clubs to which we could have taken those girls. What a Friday night!

Eze
The morning of Saturday, July 14th was a festive one as our Peirani tour bus pulled into Eze, a medieval city on the top of one of the tallest and steepest hills on the French Riviera. The 14th is Bastille Day, France's Independence Day. A band played in the small town tunes of French patriotism including their national anthem, la Marseillaise.

It had been a very pretty bus ride to Eze. The views are amazing as you get out of Nice and begin to climb the hills as the coast gets steeper and steeper.

We arrived at the top of the hill after a short walk and entered the gardens arranged by the former princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, an American movie star. Princess Grace imported many varieties of American cacti which look slightly out of place.

The view from Eze is one of the most spectacular I've ever seen. It's probably second only to the view of the Bay of Fundy from the Fundy National Park where you can see Nova Scotia on the horizon. I don't know I'll ever see anything quite like it.

We grabbed a bite to eat and boarded the bus for Monaco.

Monaco
As we crossed the border into Monaco, I realized I have now visited three of Europe's five microstates. Fun! Monaco, The Vatican, and Lichtenstein. Just Andorra and San Marino to complete the circuit, I guess.

Almost all of the parking is underground in Monaco. The prince's palace is on a large hill, and our buses parked in the hill. We took the elevator the surface and came out right in front of the aquarium, which was the first place I visited. It turned out to be more than an aquarium. It was a nautical museum also and contained skeletons of whales, an original American Revolution submarine, and a life-sized polar bear, among other things. They had a great selection of sharks and Nemo-fish.

After I finished up at the aquarium, I made my way to the Prince Rainer III's famous car collection. Some rare gems and some WWII and Vietnam American Army vehicles were most prevalent. For a few photos, be sure to check out my Facebook photo album Pirates of the Mediterranean: Shiver Ye Timbers.

I also took advantage of the sales going on in pretty much every store in Europe and updated my wardrobe with a few strategic purchases. Much of what is on sale now will be better worn in the fall and winter, but I must admit I'm excited to wear some of these articles.

I concluded my stay in Monaco with an audio guided tour of the Prince's palace. Not a bad place to live if you don't have anywhere else to stay. But the 20-foot ceilings, gold leaf, art masterpieces, and private footguard might get old after a while.

St. Tropez
It's hard to come into St. Tropez on a boat, as we did, without noticing the big mansions just outside the downtown area and the ridiculously large yachts in the harbor. One of them even had a helicopter on the helo pad on the back.

Sunday was a slower day. I had really hoped to be able to attend church again this week, but I had no such luck. Instead, another one of the RAs and I had a great discussion about our common values and compared religious views for about an hour. I felt it was a good discussion and was worth the time. In lieu of attending church, I figured it was the best I could do.

We proceeded to the castle on the top of the hill for our modern art museum and 360-degree view of the city and its environs. My favorite display in the museum/castle had to be the 22-minute film about a family of ostriches played by humans. They work pink tights and ostrich costumes and walked backwards. It's amazing how much a human walking backwards looks like an ostrich walking forwards.

But the best part about St. Tropez was its amazing collection of Picasso at the Anociade museum. I had only seen a Picasso or two in real life before coming to this museum, but there must have been at least 30 of his pieces there. I couldn't believe how many there were. There was also a great collection of post-Impressionism and Fauvist art there too. It's wonderful to see the art I remember talking about in class and remember what defines each genre, then see how each painting fits the description or not. It was also fascinating to trace the development of an artist's style across his life and compare the early works with the later.

San Remo and my day off
So after a long weekend, it was nice to have my one day off fall on a Monday. I had been debating for quite some time what I wanted to do with the little time I really had to myself, and I finally came to the conclusion that since I didn't know the next time I'd be back in Italy, I should probably take advantage of my proximity to the country. So I hopped on a train, which was 10 € round trip, and went to Italy for the day.

I had been debating about how to spend the day, and I almost opted to stay in Nice and call my friend Kyle who's serving a mission here and in whose area I now live at the lycée. I love doing missionary work and thought it would be a nice change of pace from what I'm doing 24/7. But I couldn't turn down the trip to Italy, and so I left a little reluctant.

When I arrived in San Remo, I really had no idea where I was going or what I wanted to do for the day. So I started walking down the street from the train station, hoping I would make it to the old part of town or the beach or something. Having left the train station literally no more than 5 minutes previously, I ran into to the missionaries, Elder Olsen and Elder Pappas. I said hello, introduced myself, and made a u-turn to head back to the chapel with them. The chapel was right next to the train station, but I never would have known if I hadn't been with the missionaries.

After a brief district meeting (they were the only 2 in their district), we went out to lunch. We had real Italian pizza, cooked by a real Italian, in a real Italian pizzeria in Italy, with real Italian cheese (I think you get the point)! It was delicious.

Next it was onto some fresh fruit for dessert, and then we parted ways. It was great to see, as we rode the bus on the way to lunch, Elder Pappas finding wherever he went. Everywhere we went he was talking to people. (I could understand almost every word! I need to move to Italy for a few months and just pick up the language.) Elder Olsen is still pretty new and struggles with his Italian, but he was willing to make phone calls and do all he could.

As I thought about the work that was going on in this small city with a small branch and two missionaries, and as I heard the success stories in sharing the Gospel, working with the members, finding through their own efforts, and baptizing worthy converts, it re-confirmed to me what Elder Ballard said in an all MTC teacher meeting last fall: missionary work really is moving forward around the world, and there's no need for missionaries to think that just because they're called to France, or Italy, or Germany, or Spain, or Russia, or Canada, or Africa for that matter, that they aren't going to find people ready for the message. They will, they just need to have faith and work hard, and whatever happens will be as the Lord wants it to happen.

After leaving the missionaries to some of their afternoon and evening appointments, I went to the beach and did a little shopping before getting on the train back to France. I didn't actually buy anything, I just window shopped a little for some things I was unable to find.

In all, the day was very relaxing, and I came back recharged and ready for the last week or two of the program.

The last couple of days
Tuesday was fairly uneventful with the exception of going parasailing! I'd never been before, and it was a lot of fun. I'd recommend it to anyone who hasn't been. It's so peaceful and quiet once you get a few feet over the water. I was probably 50 to 100 feet above the water, and I was only out for a few minutes, but the experience was well worth walking to the beach and letting my company pay for me to go.

Wednesday (yesterday), in contrast to Tuesday, was very busy. I didn't know I could have so much fun at work, though. I had a pretty typical morning with the running and the breakfast and the staff meeting, and then I went to Grasse in the afternoon to make perfume. Grasse is basically the perfume capital of France, the perfume capital of the world. There's a workshop where they let you mix your own scents to make your own perfume or cologne, and I made a creation I called "Mike pour homme" (I didn't have much time to think of a name). All I know is that it smells good and the perfume guy liked it.

The bus rides out there and back were long but very inexpensive. You can really get around on just a few Euros.

And then in the evening I went on what was without a doubt my favorite activity of the summer. About a 5-minute walk from the lycée is a club where we went for the "Blues Jam Session." It was so much fun, and they do it every Wednesday. I'm thinking of applying for this job again next year just so I can go play again. If I had known the first Wednesday, I would have been there every Wednesday of the summer.

So you know how excited I am about this, but let me tell you about what it was. Basically, anyone who wants to can come to this club called "Le Volume" in Nice, bring instruments and friends, and get up on the stage and play. Nothing but blues improv for several hours, with me rocking out on the stage and singing, made me so happy. Not only has it been so long since I've played with a group, but blues improv is my favorite thing in the world to play on the guitar. The other musicians were also really into it, and we all took turns soloing and jamming. In the group: two drum sets, two guitars, a bass guitar, a singer or two, and two saxophones. We just improvised our way through the evening, taking turns playing rhythm, leading, soloing, and singing, and we just had an awesome time. I haven't had that much fun in a long time.

I made up words in English and in French, and people seemed to like that I sang in French. Who says the blues can't be in French? I'd love to go back next Wednesday, but it's the last night of the program and I might not be allowed out of the lycée.
I posted a bunch of pictures from the show on Facebook, so you'll have to check those out to get an idea of what we were doing there.

Which finally brings us to today. I was very grateful to have a slower day today. I went on a guided tour of the MAMAC (Modern and Contemporary Art Museum) in Nice and learned a lot about surrealism in art and the "new realists" of our time. Fascinating work, with some very interesting interpretations, representations, and themes for the art.

Aside from the museum visit, I sat down and read half a chapter of Harry Potter. I haven't made anywhere near as much progress on that book as I would have liked to. I have also spent a lot of time getting pictures up on Facebook and updating this blog, so I do hope you'll enjoy. Cheers!

Thursday, July 12, 2007

The Beach, Mini-Golf and Harry Potter: who could ask for anything more?

I have been running a lot since I've been here. I don't know if subconsciously I need to run to justify the vast quantities of delicious but calorific food I'm taking in, or if I'm truly doing in an attempt to get in better shape. In any case, running makes me feel better all day. I think I'm partly riding the coattails of my advantageous but fleeting high hemoglobin count due to altitude training in Utah, but I have decided to use my fortuitous circumstances as a springboard to continued and increased physical activity. I'm averaging around 6 miles 6 times a week, which might not seem like much, but I haven't run this much since cross-country in high school.

Running was just the beginning of a great day. Yesterday was all kinds of fun! After running, breakfast, and a staff meeting, I hit the beach with a few other staff members. I still can't get over how amazingly beautiful the beach and the water are here. I make a point of swimming every time I go to the beach, which is a good supplement to running in the morning.

After the beach and lunch, I lead an expedition to a mini-golf place here in town. The course was sub-par (worst pun ever) at best. On seventeen holes (we skipped one due to a traffic jam) I shot under fifty, so I was happy with my putting efforts.

Some ice cream and crêpes on the way back to the lycée put the kids in a cheery mood. Following a break of an hour or two and some dinner, I collected money for tickets and escorted a group of 35 American teenagers on an excursion to the Harry Potter debut at a theater some 25 minutes away on foot. What a logistical nightmare! Fortunately I was not alone: the 3 other RAs all helped with crowd control and ticket purchases, and we had thoroughly enjoyed the movie. I thought it was a great improvement over the previous movies in the series but a bit short. I would have liked to see more of the supporting roles in the movie, but I thought the flow of the plot went much better.

The walk home across town was even more exciting at 12:30 a.m. The kids behaved themselves fairly well, with a few exceptions, and they were really good about keeping it quiet as we entered the lycée again. That was my biggest concern, but they were good about it. After that, I was ready to call it a night.

All in all, it was a great day! I'm still looking forward to para-sailing and scuba diving in the near future, as well as excursions to Monaco, Eze, and Aix-en-Provence, a day off in Italy, and seeing some old friends in Nîmes and Montpellier after the program. I'll keep you posted!

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

The Man in the Iron Mask

It's been the better part of a week since I last posted, and, as you can imagine, much has transpired in the meantime.

Sadly, as of Saturday, the two RAs I was closest to, Lily and Sara, are no longer with ASA Nice. They went home under some circumstances that still aren't clear to me. So we're a couple staff members down, which sometimes means we're stretched a little thin. I still have down time, but it's been more difficult when the whole program is going somewhere or in different directions to keep things under control.

On a more positive note, I have had a lot of fun over the past 5 days.

Friday, July 6, 2007
ICE SKATING

Friday evening I escorted a group of participants to the ice rink about 15 minutes from the lycée for an evening of skating. It had been several months since my last time on the ice, and it was good to put on some skates again. In all, about 15 people came. It was a good time, but many of the students left after only skating for 30 minutes or so. I stayed for about an hour and a half with a couple of the girls that wanted to skate longer, and I was grateful for the workout. I didn't get to go running on Friday morning.

Saturday, July 7, 2007
CANNES

L'Ile Ste. Marguerite and the Man in the Iron Mask. After an hour on our Peirani tour bus, we got off at the ferry dock in Cannes. We got on a boat for l'Ile Ste. Marguerite, a small island off the southern coast of France. The island was once a stronghold for France's coastal defense, but it was also built with a prison. In this particular prison, the legendary Man in the Iron Mask was held. While the prisoner's identity is debated, there was a prisoner held on the island by royal decree who was to wear an iron mask as part of his sentence. There were some great views from the island of Cannes and the Mediterranean. I've posted them on Facebook for those interested.

Le Musée de la Castre et la Malmaison. After a couple hours on the island and at the fort, we returned to Cannes for an evening on the town. I already visited Cannes a couple of weeks ago to see Guillaume, my friend from my mission, so I decided to devote the two hours of free time I had to visiting some museums and other parts of the city. I ventured off on my own, walking up a hill to a museum with an excellent collection of old instruments. In addition to its ancient instruments, The Musée de la Castre is a museum containing artifacts from early human civilizations In South America, Africa, and Australia (or was it Europe?) as well as a collection of authentic Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings. Some of the paintings dated back to the years when impressionism was big, while others mimicked the Impressionist style with great skill. Still others were obviously inspired by and contained elements of Impressionism but varied in their execution.

The exhibit on instruments, however, was undoubtedly the best part of the museum (at least it was in my mind). It appears as though part of the museum is converted from an old church, and the chapel of the church is the room housing the instruments. There were predecessors to the harp, the violin, and many stringed instruments, as well as interesting percussion pieces. Some of the instruments looked more like farm equipment than instruments, but they were all clearly labeled as instruments.

After the Musée de la Castre, I made my way down the hill and across the main part of town to the Malmaison, another museum which supposedly contains Picasso exhibits from time to time. Since I knew the big Picasso museum in Antibes is closed this year, I had really hoped to see some Picasso in Cannes. No such luck. The collection of paintings was small (not more than a dozen or two in all), and there wasn't a single Picasso in the whole place!

Although I appreciated the contemporary art on display, I didn't necessarily agree with the artists' messages or style. The paintings were all done in a single style where thick black lines were used to give shape and depth to the cartoon-like pictures. Most of the paintings were mock movie posters, and they were all politically charged. The thick black shaping lines of the images gave a geodesic appearance to the forms represented. The handwriting in the caption boxes and lettering appeared to be that of a kindergartner, and some of the subject matter was questionable at best. What was interesting to me was to see what artists today are doing. This seemed to be a new and unique style. There were certain elements of cubism, but the school of painting had something novel about it. When people are studying art history in a few years, they might just learn about what I saw while the paint was practically still drying on the canvas.

I had a nice dinner across the street from the Palais des Festivals where the film festival takes place each year. I could see the red carpet from my table. The food here is so good. I had a wonderful salad, steak, and dessert. Panna Cotta, I think it's called. It was amazing.

After an uneventful evening bus ride home, I decided to call it a day.

Sunday, July 8, 2007
CHURCH

After missing a Sunday at Church on the 1st, I was very excited about going to Church. Knowing several missionaries in the mission also got me thinking I might no someone serving in the ward. I was not disappointed.

My first experience on the Nice public bus system was quite pleasant. The bus driver refused to let me buy a ticket on the way to Church, so I got a round trip to Church and back for the price of one trip on the bus. Also, I was able to stay for all 3 hours, much to my surprise.

As I walked into the chapel (a beautiful white building on a hill with palm trees in the yard), the Elder playing the piano quickly stood up and came excitedly toward me. I soon realized it was Elder Kyle Hamilton, one of my roommates my first semester back from my mission. He was excited to see me, and I was excited to see him. It's almost like I can't travel around France without running into someone I know at Church. We had a great talk and discovered I live in his area. How weird is that?

When Sacrament Meeting came, Elder Hamilton's companion pointed out an American family that didn't speak French. I offered to translate, which they reluctantly accepted. They wanted to hear the talks in French. At first I only gave them an idea of the topic and let them try to pick up a word here and there. But by the time the counselor in the Stake Presidency stood up to speak, they were ready for me translate the whole talk. It brought back some memories from the mission, except that I was translating from English to French in Canada. It's much easier to translate into one's own language, but it was still hard to keep up. The talk was great, and I felt the family and I were both edified.

I took a few pictures after Church (check Facebook) of the building and with Elder Hamilton, and bid him 'til next week. I thought when I left I'd also have next Sunday morning off, but it sounds like I won't. I'll just have to catch up with him when he gets back to BYU in 6 or 7 months, and I'll have to try to get to Church in Aix-en-Provence when we're there in a couple of weeks.

ANTIBES and JUAN-LES-PINS
I made it back to the lycée just in time to eat lunch and get on the bus for Antibes, a resort town between Nice and Cannes but right next to Cannes. The ride was about 40 minutes. Our first mission upon arriving in the city was to find a restaurant or a bar with a TV so the guys in my group could watch the Wimbledon Final. Since the majority of those wanting to watch the match were guys, I was chosen to head up the activity.

We quickly located a bar with a TV and then went our ways. When the Final started, we all met up again at the bar. I don't like watching sports on Sunday, but when it's part of your job, what can you do? (I don't like working on Sunday either; this job is the first time I've ever had to work on Sunday.) Despite the less than ideal circumstances, I have to admit the match was great. The players were very evenly matched (a Spaniard named Nadal and the famous Swiss player Roger Federer), and the match went back and forth. These were the same two finalists in the French Open, where Nadal beat Federer. We watched the first three sets in Antibes, followed the fourth by Blackberry on the bus, and found a restaurant to watch the fifth in Juan-les-Pins. Federer won the match in the fifth set 6 games to 2, I believe.

After the match, all the staff met for dinner at a wonderful restaurant on the way out of the downtown area. We then got on the bus, and headed back to the lycée, completely exhausted.

Monday, July 9, 2007
SHOPPING

Nothing exciting happened yesterday, with the exception of a few wardrobe acquisitions. This might not be exciting for all my readers, but it was to me. After a slow day around the lycée, it was nice just to get out.

I got a cool retro-looking track jacket from a sporting goods store and pair of flip flops from another sports store. I'm happy with both purchases. I've decided I need some more European-looking clothes for when I'm in Europe, so you might never see me in some of these things in the States.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007
NOTHING

Today has been even less eventful than yesterday, but I have some amazing plans for the next few days, including mini-golf and the Harry Potter debut. I'll keep you posted.

Thursday, July 5, 2007

Mike and the 4th of July

I came to the realization yesterday that, in the last 5 years, I have only spent one 4th of July in the United States. As much as I miss the fireworks, festivities, family fun, and feasts, I have come to the conclusion that I enjoy traveling. There's too much to see in the world to be stuck in one place all the time, and traveling during the summer is by far the most convenient for students. Unfortunately, it's also the most expensive and most tourist-infested. What I love most about traveling is meeting natives of the country and getting to know them. This is a difficult task in a tourist trap like Nice, especially when the vast majority of my time is spent chaperoning American teenagers.

Lest I sound critical of the experience, allow me to explain. Nice is a phenomenal city. The weather has been nothing but exceptional, and we have had more fun exploring the city and eating at great restaurants than I would have believed possible before arriving. The setting for my morning run each day is beautiful. Running along the Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice's boardwalk) only makes me feel more at home, and the climate resembles that of southern California.

For dinner yesterday evening, our French cooks at the lycée humored our patriotism. We enjoyed a French interpretation of the American cookout. The banner attached to the window near our picnic tables explained it all. It read (in English): Happy 4th of July!

Over a wood-fire grill (no charcoal, I guess), the chef cooked French bifteck haché, which has the approximate appearance of a hamburger patty. Usually the French will serve this on the plate without a bun, but for us they purchased American-style hamburger buns, complete with sesame seeds. After all the delicious French bread and pastries I've been consuming for the past two weeks, the hamburger buns didn't taste so hot.

They grilled merguez sausages to give the appearance of hot dogs, but merguez is thinner and longer than a Ballpark frank. They must not make hot dog buns in France, because they served our sausage sans pain. The potato chips here have a slightly different texture, too.

Despite some subtle differences in its representation, the consensus view was that the American barbecue was a success. For just one evening, it was almost like being back in the States....

So the RAs got together and went out dancing on the town. We went to a square in the middle of town (complete with carousel and everything) to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of Garibaldi, who was born in Nice. A great funk/salsa/polka band entertained us, and, as usual, I made a complete fool of myself (in front of many French people and my co-workers) dancing the night away. Let's just say I let the music take me away. I was dancing so much like a mad man that the singer of the group came down off the stage and started dancing with me as he sang. A few incriminating photos are forthcoming. Suffice it to say I had a great time.

While there were no fireworks on the fourth, I felt like I celebrated at least as much as I would have if I'd been at home. Happy Birthday, USA!

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Nice: June 26 - July 4, 2007... Finally up to date

The train ride from Cannes to Nice on Tuesday, June 26th took no more than an hour, and even that was on a train making all the local stops. It was a double-decker train, so I was sure to sit on the upper level to admire the view, which was basically amazing.

I had no idea where the Lycée Masséna (a well-respected French boarding school), my home and place of employment for the next month, was located in the city, so, after arriving at the station in Nice, I got off the train and went to the tourism office next to the train station to ask. I was again thankful for the flexibility that packing light affords, and I decided to walk to the lycée by myself instead of troubling my new boss by having her come pick me up. It was only a fifteen minute walk, and I figured it would give me a good chance to see the main drags of the city.

As I walked down l'Avenue Jean Médecin, I couldn't help but notice the ubiquitous jersey wall and fences dividing some of the city's major streets. I remembered Nice was a construction nightmare last year when I was only in town for a day, and it didn't look like much had changed. I later learned that the city is undergoing the installation of Tramway system that will greatly ease pedestrian traffic and facilitate getting around the city in a more timely manner. As it stands right now, most people walk almost everywhere. While this is good for public health, it is certainly inconvenient when one desires to cross the entire city in any reasonable amount of time.

As I walked up to the lycée, I was first struck by its size and architecture. To describe its presence, it takes up almost an entire city block in the 5th largest city in France. It has walls all around it which are at least two stories high, and the architectural impression it leaves on the mind is somewhat of a cross between Hogwarts and a pirate castle you'd expect to see in Pirates of the Caribbean. On the inside, it almost feels like living in a prison, but a nice one where you can come and go as you please, and where everyone is nice and accommodating. From the looks of the grounds, the film Les Choristes could have just as easily been filmed here as it was wherever it was filmed.

After 3 days of training, unpacking, repacking, unpacking, moving, and eating out (Italian, Indian, Tunisian, and French restaurants) I finally settled into my permanent room. The students arrived the next day, and we've been doing nothing but fun stuff since. And there's plenty more to come.

The daily routine is settling down, but the first few days were a little hectic. Saturday was check-in, Sunday was orientation and hall dinner in the city, and Monday was just amazing. On Monday the 2nd of July, we went rafting on the Var River. There were some nice rapids, but nothing too scary. I went without any glasses (because I didn't want to lose them), so I didn't appreciate the scenery as much, but even blind it was a good time. What a beautiful area. I wore my glasses on the way up and had a chance to see the Alps and the river winding through them. It was awesome.

The craziest part was wearing a wetsuit. I had never worn one before Monday, and it was an interesting experience.

The bus ride through the mountains was an important part of the trip, but I think many of the students slept through it.

Tuesday, July 3rd, the students had their French language placement tests, and today is the 4th. Happy Independence Day! You wouldn't know there was anything special about the day here, but the 14th (French Independence Day) is a pretty big deal. I'm looking forward to fireworks then.

And so now you're up to speed. Now that I've caught you up, I'll tell you about my plans and the more regular daily routine here at the lycée. The students have French class in the morning, and our staff meeting isn't until 11 a.m., but I can't sleep past 7:30 even if I try. So I decided to make a habit getting up and going running before breakfast, which runs from 8:00 to 9:00. I don't have a responsibility before our staff meeting at 11:00, so if I have errands to do, I do them then. However, I have also realized that I can continue working for Dr. Welch at BYU and get paid for it, so why not sneak in a couple extra hours on the clock? Dr. Welch needs the work I'm doing ASAP anyway, so I'm happy to help.

After staff meeting is lunch from noon to 1:00, and then some days I have responsibilities in the afternoon. Sometimes I'm leading activities around the city, sometimes I'm at the lycée on office or internet duty, and sometimes I have the afternoon off as well. I'm quite happy with the amount of "free" time we have, although it is quickly consumed with different things to do around the lycée. There always seems to be some crisis somewhere around the school, most of which are legitimate problems, so we keep busy. Keeping 60 American high school students happy, safe, fed, and entertained isn't always easy.

Dinner isn't until 7:00 p.m., so sometimes I'll have a snack before. Usually I'm busy running around the city, so I don't even think to eat before it's time for dinner anyway. After dinner there are evening activities (like bowling and billiards night which was a lot of fun, or movie night in French, or a beach party like tonight), as well as "town duty," which entails peregrinations on old French pedestrian streets and along the boardwalk making sure the kids are keeping out of trouble. Honestly, I don't mind wandering around the city at night as the nightlife is lots of fun. There are street markets and ice cream shops and all kinds of fun.

Check-in is at 11:00 p.m. for the students, so I have to be back around 10:45 to make sure they arrive on time. Quiet hours start at midnight, so I have to be up to tell them all to go to bed. After that, I hit the sack myself.

I have a lot of liberty as to what I do during the day, for which I am very grateful. I was afraid I'd be completely busy 24/7 with activities, and I would have been alright with that since all the activities I go on are paid for by ASA, but I am able to explore the city on my own, I have time to read Harry Potter in French, and life is just generally relaxed... so far.

I also found out today that the music professor here at the lycée is going to lend me a guitar and give me access to the computer room, where there's a piano and a drum set. I'm really looking forward to getting back into music a little bit. Some of the guys in my group are really into music, so we're going to jam. It's going to be a lot of fun.

There are many other activities planned, but I'll keep you posted on them as they happen.

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Cannes

I got off the train late in the afternoon of Monday, June 25th with my two backpacks and had no idea where I was going to stay. Ironically, the feeling was all too familiar and reminded me of last year in Italy. As disconcerting as that feeling might sound, my domineering sense of adventure took over. Before finding a hotel for the evening, I proceeded immediately to the beach. I couldn't wait to see the Med again.

With one backpack on the front and one on the back, I made my way through town along the 5-minute walk to the beach. Cannes is a beautiful city, and I completely understand why the world's movie stars and producers would choose it as the location for the famous Cannes film festival.

The sea breeze and smell of salty air that struck my face and opened my sinuses as I crossed the last street separating me from the beach made me weak in the knees: not from some pungent odor, but rather from the overwhelming sensation of relaxation that only the realization of a year's worth of classroom daydreaming could induce. My dream was upon me.

Once reality set in again, I realized I should probably find a place to stay, although the temptation to spend the entire evening on the beach seemed increasingly appealing. Fortunately, indulgence heeded prudence, and I made my way back to town. I quickly found a hotel, contacted my friend who lives in town, and made my way back to the beach to await our scheduled rendez-vous in town.

After a delightful hour at the beach, including my first swim in the Med since last year (and the first one ever that didn't make me cold!), I met up with my friend Guillaume and his wife, as well as their young child. It was again an inspiration to me to see young people in the Church in France living the Gospel, despite a difficult environment. As I think about the kind of home this young child will have, and the kind of person he will have the opportunity to become, it puts a smile on my face.

We went out to a pizza restaurant where I had some delicious pizza, wood-fire Italian oven style. I like American pizza, but this stuff was truly great.

After dinner, Guillaume and his wife took me on a walk along the shore. Not more than a few hundred meters from the restaurant where we ate was the Palais des festivals where festival takes place. I went up and posed for a picture on the tapis rouge (red carpet) and thought of the day when I'll be pulling up in my limo and walking up the stairs in my tuxedo.... Yeah right!

I parted ways with my friends and made my way for my hotel. I was just about ready for bed. I caught up on what was going on in France on the news and decided to call it a night.

When I got up the next morning, I went to Monoprix (a grocery store chain in France) to make a few purchases (including my breakfast) and went back to the hotel to eat and pack. I bought a Yop (yoplait's drinkable yogurt--it's delicious) and some Petit Prince cookies, which I anxiously consumed.

Packing doesn't take very long when you only have a few changes of clothes, so I was on my way to Nice within the hour. As I got on the train for Nice, I made a mental note that Cannes would be a place I'd like to visit again.

Monday, July 2, 2007

Lyon

After getting on the later train from Paris on Friday the 22nd of June, I made my way to Lyon. I was on the TGV (train à grande vitesse or high-speed train), which leaves regularly from Paris to Lyon. The trip is non-stop and usually takes a little under two hours. The train left on time and we made our way to Lyon at an incredible speed. I'm always amazed at how fast those trains go. I was amazed to watch as the scenery blew by as we reached speeds over 200 mph.

But, as my luck on the metro on the morning would foreshadow, my train was delayed. First we slowed then came to a complete stop about 5 minutes from my destination. After a few minutes of sitting on the track, the conductor announced that due to technical difficulties, our train would remain stopped for an undetermined duration. The people on the train were horrified, myself included. I could have walked to the station from where we were, but we weren't allowed off the train. Fortunately, we were fast on our way within 10 or 15 minutes.

A delay wouldn't have bothered me so much if I hadn't made arrangements for my friends from last year, the Georges, to meet me at the train station. I assured them I could take the convient, efficient metro system to their apartment, but they insisted on meeting me at the station. Honestly, I was glad to see them, and so were they to see me.

What I didn't know is that an entire group of my friends from the YSA from last year were also there. In a way, I felt horrible. They had all planned their day around meeting me at the station, and I had missed my first train. I had called ahead to let them know I'd be on a subsequent train, and they had changed their plans to be there an hour and a half later than scheduled. Then, my train was delayed 5 minutes from the station, and I was another few minutes late.

My disdain was short lived as I caught up with each of them on the metro on the way home. I can't tell you how good it was to see them again. They were so good to me last year, and was so good to see them this year too. In fact, two of them are on their way to the States, and I'll see them there when I get back.

After all that, I finally arrived in Lyon. It was Friday afternoon, and mostly what I wanted to do was catch up with people. We took it easy for a little while, walked around the city, and had a good time.

Friday night was relatively uneventful aside from a great time at a movie I went to with some friends. Mostly it was just good to spend time with them, David and Julien. They're both leaving on missions in the near future.

I don't even know the name of the movie in English for sure, but I think it was Wild Hogs or something like that. It was a movie with John Travolta, Martin Lawrence, and a few others I recognized. I really had no idea what it was rated, who was in it, or anything like that. In France, if the movies don't have a rating, it usually means they're okay. The ratings start at like PG-12 or something like that. So apparently the French movie rating board thought this movie would be okay for kids. You never can tell with the French, though. There didn't seem to be anything too bad in it, and if there ever is, I usually can't understand it. One of the advantages of learning another language: it's sometimes easier to control what vocabulary you learn and use.

Saturday I got up early and went for a run. After a good night's sleep and still maintaining a high hemoglobin count from living in the mountains (as well as just being in better shape than I was last year), I took off on my usual route from last year. When I got to where I used to turn around last year, I barely felt warmed up. I continued for what must have been two or three times farther than I ran last year before I turned around. I was gone for full hour and ran at a good pace for all but 5 minutes of it. That might not seem very impressive to many of you, but that was a great accomplishment for me. I felt good all day.

Saturday afternoon I again went out with friends. Michele, a girl from BYU who is doing the same internship I did last year and living with the same family I did last year, David, and I went out for lunch at this really great salad restaurant. Lyon is revered by many of the French as being the food capital of the country, and we were not let down.

After an incredible lunch, we all parted ways and I met up with some more friends from last year. We wandered around the city and took care of a few errands. We took a beautiful stroll down the newly finished boardwalk of the Rhône river. We walked for quite a distance before turning around and heading back to town. Having run a lot that morning, I felt my legs starting to tire.

One of my friends whom I particularly wanted to see is engaged since last I saw him. His fiancée lives far away, and since my friend works for the SNCF (France's main railway service) and he gets free tickets, he is almost always out of town on the weekends. Fortunately, he was in town, and he invited the whole gang over for dinner at his place. It was so good to see Nicolas again, and especially to see him happy with his new fiancée. They'll be married in the temple in November or December (I can't remember, but I have the announcement).

Eating dinner chez Nicolas brought back so many good memories from last summer. What a great time.

Sunday, June 24: I went to Church at the same ward I attended last summer. Again, more of the same: so good to catch up with people. Church was wonderful: Elders quorum met outside, they now have a class just for the YSA, and Sacrament meeting was great.

After Church, we had an excellent dinner at the Georges' apartment. Hélène, my host mother from last year, made her famous lasagna, and it was every bit as good as I remembered it, if not better. After being away from France for a while, you forget how good the food is here. Dinner was delightful.

After an afternoon siesta, we took of for a walk in the park with the gang. Even after living in Lyon for over 2 months last year, I never visited one if its famous parks, le parc de la tête d'or. It's a park on the northern side of town. I knew it was well-known and I knew it was big from the space it occupied on the map, but I had no idea it was also a free zoo. Lions, tigers, bears (oh my;-), deer, monkeys, ducks, flamingos, gazelles--you name it.

After crêpes and games night at Nico's, we retired for the evening. I got up early and went for a run again on Monday morning, and I stopped by at my old office where I worked last year to say hi to my boss and Michele, who was occupying one of the same desks where I worked last year.

I didn't want to miss my train, so my visit at la Maison de l'Europe was brief. I showed Michele a boulangerie where I often ate last year and we got sandwiches. I had to pack mine and take it with me on the train for lack of time, but I also showed her where the institute building is (right around the corner from the office). I hope she has as much fun there as I did.

I caught my train, and after making a connection in Marseilles, I finally made it to Cannes, the city of France's famous film festival. As I reminisced on the train on my short but delightful visit to my old home of 2+ months last year, I couldn't help but feel overcome with the joy of seeing dear friends and renewing old ties. I can't help but feel that there's something more to our relationships on earth than terrestrial association. The Lord really has a hand in our lives, as I saw last year when I made these great friends, and as I felt this year when I saw them again.